A Brief History of Verona: My Verona Journey Series, Part 1
As you wander through Verona’s cobblestone streets, you’re walking in the footsteps of history—where the story of Romeo and Juliet first came to life. In the first part of “My Verona Journey,” we take a closer look at the city’s fascinating past—a place that’s seen empires rise and fall, cultures blend, and love stories unfold through centuries.
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Whether it’s your first time in Verona or you’re returning for more, this guide will lead you deep into the heart of the city. It’s filled with hidden gems and unforgettable stories that show you what truly makes Verona one-of-a-kind.
Ready to explore Verona like never before? Get your copy of “My Verona Journey”: A First-Timer’s Travel Guide to Exploring, Experiencing, and Remembering the Heart of Verona by Obehi Ewanfoh and start your unforgettable adventure today!
Verona, a city at the foot of the Lessini Mountains and half-encircled by the Adige River, has been a crossroads of history, culture, and civilization for over two millennia. Located in northern Italy’s Veneto region, approximately 65 miles (105 km) west of Venice, this charming city has seen countless transformations, each leaving its mark on Verona’s unique character.
Early Beginnings and Roman Ascendancy
Verona’s origins are shrouded in mystery, with evidence suggesting that the city was first inhabited by ancient tribes, possibly the Euganei or Raeti, before it came under the control of the Gallic Cenomani.1
By 89 BCE, Verona was officially established as a Roman colony. Its strategic position at the junction of key roads connecting Italy with northern Europe allowed Verona to flourish during the Roman era. Verona became an important hub for trade, culture, and administration, and it was during this time that the poet Catullus, known for his passionate poetry, was born in the city.
As the Roman Empire rose to power, Verona’s significance only grew. Many remnants of this period remain today, including the remarkable Arena di Verona, one of the largest and best-preserved Roman amphitheaters in the world.
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Built in the 1st century CE, it still hosts world-renowned operas and cultural events, a testament to the city’s enduring legacy.
The Medieval Era and the Rise of the Scaliger Family
The fall of the Roman Empire brought with it a series of invasions and new rulers. In 489 CE, Verona came under the control of the Ostrogoth king Theodoric, who fortified the city and built a castle on the site where the Castel San Pietro stands today.
The city continued to be a point of contention during the Middle Ages, passing through the hands of several rulers, including the Lombards and Charlemagne, who captured the city in 774.
By the early 12th century, Verona had established itself as an independent commune, though it was often embroiled in conflicts between the Guelfs (supporters of the papacy) and the Ghibellines (those loyal to the Holy Roman Empire).
Verona sided with the Guelfs during these turbulent times, but it was not until the rise of the powerful della Scala family in the mid-13th century that the city began to experience relative peace and prosperity.
Under the leadership of Mastino I della Scala,2 who became podesta (chief magistrate) in 1260, Verona began to grow in both wealth and influence. The della Scala family’s rule would come to define the city for generations, bringing stability, artistic flourishing, and architectural beauty.
It was during this period that Verona became the setting for one of the most famous love stories in history—Romeo and Juliet. The tragic romance of the Montagues and Capulets, immortalized by William Shakespeare, is still celebrated in Verona today, with sites like Juliet’s House and the Tomb of Juliet drawing countless visitors each year.
The greatest member of the della Scala family was Cangrande I, who ruled until his death in 1329. Cangrande I not only expanded the city’s power but also provided sanctuary to the exiled poet Dante Alighieri, offering protection during the poet’s years of wandering after his political exile from Florence. Verona’s status as a cultural and intellectual center during this period cannot be overstated.
Verona Under New Rulers
In 1387, Verona fell to the Visconti family of Milan, and by 1405, the city came under Venetian rule. For almost four centuries, Verona was governed by Venice, benefiting from its commercial and political power, but also enduring the pressures of imperial rule. Verona’s role as a Venetian stronghold was briefly interrupted by the occupation of Emperor Maximilian I from 1509 to 1517, but the city was soon returned to Venice.
In 1797, following the Napoleonic Wars, Verona’s fate changed again with the Treaty of Campo Formio, when Napoleon ceded the city to Austria. It wasn’t until 1866, after the Italian unification, that Verona became part of the newly formed Kingdom of Italy.
The Modern City and Its Resilience
The 20th century brought new challenges for Verona. During World War II, the city was heavily bombed, and much of its historic architecture was damaged. However, Verona’s resilience shone through, and the city has since been painstakingly restored to preserve its rich heritage. Today, Verona stands as one of northern Italy’s most vibrant and historically significant cities.
Known for its well-preserved Roman and medieval architecture, Verona is a living testament to its storied past. Landmarks such as the Castelvecchio, a 14th-century fortress and now a civic museum, the Loggia del Consiglio, and the Arche Scaligere, with its elaborate tombs, all speak to the city’s diverse history.
It’s churches, like the Romanesque San Zeno Maggiore and the Gothic Sant’Anastasia, further add to the city’s architectural beauty.
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Speaking of San Zeno, you might be interested in reading my previous book, The Journey – Africans in Verona, where I touch on the presence of Africans in Verona and northern Italy.
According to a 7th-century Veronese author named Coronato, who was a notary, Zeno hailed from Mauretania in north Africa. He is said to have taught African children about the Catholic faith and assisted with their education. Another account suggests that Zeno was a follower of Athanasius, the patriarch of Alexandria, and accompanied him to Verona in 340.
Regardless of the variations in the story, Zeno eventually became one of the earliest Catholic bishops of Verona. Having died as a martyr, he is now honored as the patron saint of Verona.
It’s important also to point out that Verona’s artistic heritage is just as rich, having been home to some of Italy’s most well-known Renaissance painters, including Paolo Veronese, whose works can still be admired in the city today.
Verona’s art scene continues to thrive, especially in the fields of opera and classical music, with the Arena di Verona remaining one of the world’s most iconic opera venues.
A City of Today and Tomorrow
Verona’s significance extends beyond its historical and cultural legacy. Today, the city is a vital economic hub, known for its thriving agricultural sector, producing notable wines like Amarone and Soave, and serving as a key center for trade between Italy and central Europe.
Verona’s location at the crossroads of major rail and road networks makes it an essential point of connection for travelers heading to both northern and central Europe.
As you walk through Verona today, you can sense the echoes of its long and storied past. From the ancient ruins of Roman amphitheaters to the quiet charm of its medieval streets, Verona invites you to explore and experience history firsthand.
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Whether you are gazing at the Arena, wandering through its centuries-old piazzas, or simply savoring a glass of local wine, you are part of the ongoing story of a city that has endured through the ages—always growing, always changing, but always rooted in its remarkable history.
Are you ready to explore Verona? Get your copy of “My Verona Journey”: A First-Timer’s Travel Guide to Exploring, Experiencing, and Remembering the Heart of Verona by Obehi Ewanfoh and start your unforgettable adventure today!
